Archive for October, 2011

Non alcholic cocktails

Monday, October 10th, 2011

bill with roy rogers
In a cafe for lunch Bill happened to see a non-alcholic cocktail called the Roy Rogers. It was a mixture of Coca Cola and Cherryade. It was awful. If he had asked for it with Sprite instead of Coke then it would have been a Shirley Temple.

Fairmont Hotel

Monday, October 10th, 2011
fairmont hotel view from terrace fairmont hotel view from room
view from hotel terrace view from hotel room
fairmont hotel water feature fairmont hotel pool
water feature hotel pool

We are staying at Fairmont Hotel. It is built on a very ancient lava flow. In the 1960s they decided to create hotel complexes along the coast. From the main road one turns towards the coast and you travel for a couple of miles across the brown/black lava flows and then the the landscape changes into beautiful manicured lawns and shrub lined roads. The hotels are landscaped with beautiful gardens complete with cocount palms, tulip trees, banana trees, hibiscus shrubs etc. All very artificial but very lovely gardens.

Arriving in Hawaii

Monday, October 10th, 2011

fairmont hotel room

We flew to Hawaii on the Thursday evening and didn’t end the day in the happiest frame of mind. We had arrived at LA airport early and got through the security controls with no problems. Wandered round the shops etc. until about 1hr before the flight  and then decided to walk the 15 minute walk to our gate – 69b. Half way there we happened to look at the departure board and noticed that the gate was now 75b which was back in the main terminal. We walked back and checked with the airline counter that the gate had definitely changed and then to settled down to wait. 10 minutes later the announcement came that the original gate number was correct and so we wondered back to gate 69b. Around the gate were a lot of unhappy customers moaning who had also spent time walking from gate to gate but also complaining about the condition of the lounge around gate 69b. They are in the middle of refurbising this part of the airport and so we were surrounded by scaffolding and dim lighting. There were no staff at the gate and no notice giving flight number so there were lots of moans about customer service from United Airways. Eventually staff from the airline arrived, confirming we were in the correct place, and after 20 minutes we were getting on the aircraft. The flight (5 hrs) went smoothly and  at 7.15p.m. we got off at Kona airport on the Big Island. Contrary to all the travel programmes no one met us with garlands of flowers. Instead we picked up our luggage and then went to car rental. The first car we were given had a GPS system that didn’t work. So changed cars and started off. Just out of the airport the car sounded as if it was running in first gear. We returned to the airport where we were told that the car was fine but we had been using the gear overdrive on the automatic. However, they noticed that the tyre pressure was low and so returning to the airport hadn’t been a complete waste of time. Back on the road we finally got to the hotel. Bill went to park the ca while I booked in. The hotel is rather large but eventually we found the room – large, comfortable. We decided to unpack and then go for something to eat. “Where’s my wallet. I’m sure I had it with me. Just a few minutes ago I used it to give the carpark guy a tip”, said Bill. We searched the room and couldn’t find it. We returned to the lobby and borrowed a torch to retrace Bill’s steps to the car. Nothing. Returned to the room searched again. Nothing found until I decided to store the cases and lifting one of them off the stool at the end of the bed we saw the wallet. Relief all round  and then headed for the bar thinking the worst was over and we could actually start to enjoy Hawaii. The bar was full with loud, drunk Americans on their last night. We wandered into the quietest corner of the room only with only a young Japenese couple sitting in front of us. She, we think – we hope, was very drunk as otherwise we cannot explain her disconcerting behaviour of turning round, looking at us, smiling and moving her head in circles. We left the bar after a quick drink we returned to the room hoping that the next morning would make us more positive about Hawaii. 

Getty Villa

Saturday, October 8th, 2011

getty villa

getty villa
We were due to get the plane to Hawaii on Thursday afternoon. Rather than hang around the hotel we had booked tickets to go and see the Getty Villa. As the name suggests it  is a reconstruction of a Roman villa and houses the Getty of Greek and Roman art. We had been wanting to see it for a number of years and so we were hoping that we wouldn’t be disappointed. Glad to report that the villa, the gardens and the art were fantastic. We were also blessed by the weather as after the rain of the day before everything was looking pristine and the skies were blue.
fano statue
Among the exhibits we were able to see the “Fano Athlete”. This bronze statue was found of the Adriatic coast, near Fano, in the early 1960s. Fano has been campaigning to have the statue returned to Fano claiming that the Getty Museum had illegally obtained the statue. The campaign continues.

(We went on a garden tour and the guide told us that the water in the main pool was 17.5 inches deep. Roman ponds were deeper but in California if a pool is over 18 inches deep then a permanent lifeguard must be provided).

A rainy day in Los Angeles

Saturday, October 8th, 2011
lady janes tea shop farmers market in the rain

Until Wednesday the 5th October Los Angeles hadn’t seen rain for over 3 months. So as it wasn’t an ideal day for sight seeing we decided to go shopping. We began with a visit to Lady Jane’s an “old english tea shoppe” in Melrose Avenue. Recommended by New Yorker friends Peter and George who have a nose for finding out pastry shops. After having had coffee for a few days it was nice to have a cup of tea and a cup cake and alternatively watch the rain and the display of cakes. Heavy rain is not ideal conditions for walking up and down Melrose Avenue and so we asked if there was a mall near by. The folks in the tea shop told us about the Grove shopping mall which was near by and as it turned out was part of the famous Farmer’s Market. We drove there, parked and then realised that it was an outdoor mall but the management had very kindly provided free umbrellas for customers. So managed to have a stroll round the shops and finished inside the farmers market eating pastrami on rye (for Bill) and turkey on white (for Terry).

Bryan’s Brew – how to use up left over basil.

Wednesday, October 5th, 2011

bryans cocktail

In the evening we returned, as promised, to the Taberna Mexican restaurant where Bryan the barman made me the basil based cocktail. It was, as he had said, delicious and he very kindly gave us the recipe:

Take 6 large, torn basil leaves and in a pestle and mortar “muddle” them i.e. grind. Add them to  a cocktail shaker and add 2.5 fluid oz of gin, 1 fluid oz of simple syrup (see below) and 2 fluid oz of fresh grapefruit juice. Shake and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with basil leave.

(sugar water: equal quantities of sugar and water. Boil the water and add to the sugar. Stir until dissolved. Cool and keep in fridge until needed) 

Getty Centre

Wednesday, October 5th, 2011
getty centre courtyard getty centre garden

On the second day of our trip we got out the car and headed to the Getty Centre. This museum was funded by oil tycoon Paul Getty and houses his art collection from 1500 onwards. The weather forecast was for cloud and a possibility of rain but we got a beautiful sunny day. Ideal for seeing the buildings and garden of the centre. We arrived about 11.00. After parking the car a small tram takes you up into the hills and into the centre. We arrived just in time for a garden tour. The garden itself is seen as a work of art and it wonderful. Judy, our guide, explained the concepts behind the plan not just of the garden but of the courtyards within the building. The building themselves are coated with blocks of tavertine marble and going round the museum the changing perspectives on the buildings and on the surrounding landscape are always enthrallling. In fact the  collection comes second to the buildings and gardens.

After the museum we drove down Sunset Boulevard and came to the Ocean at Santa Monica. Beautiful houses, beautiful tree lined avenues and then very quickly into the Venice Beach area with a decidedly down at heel feel. Moving from the “haves” to the “have nots” doesn’t take very long here.

Finding italians from Pesaro

Wednesday, October 5th, 2011

Having travelled around Florida some Italian friends from Pesaro had met two other Italians who, it turned out, were also from Pesaro. So wondering if on our travels we will also be so lucky. Yesterday morning in the lift of the hotel I heard a couple speaking Italian. Asked were they were from but it turned out they were from Rome. They were heading out on the bus for a tour to the Grand Canyon. We instead went out for a coffee in the nearest coffee shop. Unfortunately it was a Starbucks and coffee was as bad as I remembered.

Back to meeting Italians. Need to keep looking for the folks from Pesaro.

Arriving in LA – converting from italian to mexican food.

Tuesday, October 4th, 2011

hilton room

After our 11 hour flight we arrived in Los Angeles at 1.30pm. Long, long wait at immigration and a long, long wait at the hire car followed by a drive on the very down at hill Freeway wasn’t the best introduction to the city. However, once of the freeway and driving to the Beverly Hills Hilton things looked much better. The room was comfortable and the bed even more so.
mexican bar
barman preparing Bill’s second margharita.

 After freshening up we decided to walk down to Rodeo Drive (about 10 minutes away) and then go for something to eat. Not too many eating places in the area but on a side street saw a Mexican bar and restaurant.  Went in and sat at the bar. We decided to order a couple of Margheritas and look at the menu. The bar man then showed us the bar food. While sipping the delicious Margharitas and chomping on crisps and chili salsa I opted for guacamole and bill for empanadas (a pastry roll stuffed with shrimp and crab). They were delicious. Bill then opted for another Margharita of the Barman’s choice – it was a margharita with raspberries. We also opted for a chorizo burger – chorizo wrapped in crispy cuicharrron with chipotle aoli and mushrooms). Again delicious. We asked the barman about his favourite drinks and he told us that one of his favourites was made from gin and basil etc. So we are going back tomorrow to try it and get some more delicious food.

Monique’s family

Sunday, October 2nd, 2011
moniques family
Monique’s grandmother Domenica with her two sons –
Monique’s dad on the left and her uncle on the right

When Monique was in San Giorgio during the summer she asked for some help getting birth and marriage certificates of various family members. She had the relevant dates and when we when to the commune at Mondavio and Serrungari we found the staff to be very helpful and within 30 minutes we had the relevant certificates.

At Mondavio we were looking for the birth certificate of her grandmother Domenica Quarta  who was born in Mondavio in 1894. When the man in the commune gave us a copy of the original certificate we asked if he could read out the details as the writing was difficult to decipher. Starting to read he suddenly went “Oh”. It turned out that the birth had been registered, not by the father, but by the midwife and a note on the certificate said that the child had not been recognised by the parents and was subsequently sent to an orphanage in Fano. However, the note went on to say that when Domenica was 10 she was “legitimised” by her parents and removed from the orphanage.

We assumed that leaving the baby for adoption was a result of poverty and their inability to manage. However, when Monique went back to America and talked to family members she was given some extra details:

Domenica’s father had gone to America, married a German woman and they had a child. He wanted to divorce her but being unable to, he returned to Italy where he met Petonilla, Domenica’s mother. (She was a widow – she had not only lost her husband at sea but her 3 children had also died).
They lived together out of wedlock and as children were born they brought them to the orphanage. Luckily, Domenica was taken in by, according to the family, a beautiful woman and Domenica came to consider her her mother. When she was ten, the German wife died, and her parents, able to marry, went to collect their children.
Domenica’s adopted mother started to come to visit her until one dayher real mother, Petronilla, told the woman that it upset her too much to see her and asked her to stop coming to see Domenica. It seems that her mother just used Domenica for labour and so when she met her future husband and he asked her to go to Americawith him she readily agreed.